Buyer’s Guide

Recommendation for newer buyers: 

We highly recommend our aluminum DAC 9.3mm diameter poles to almost everyone. 

• • Why aluminum: Aluminum poles are reasonably light, strong, and very tough. Carbon fiber poles may be lighter but are far more prone to damage.
  • Why 9.3mm: 9.3mm diameter poles offer a good balance of lightness, stiffness, and strength that is suited to a broad range of conditions. Thinner poles can of course, work but require more care when it comes to perfect pitching and campsite selection to avoid breaks. 

What pole type is right for you?

• • All poles have trade-offs, and high-tech, expensive materials are not always better. Look at the broad criteria below and decide what matters most to you.
  • We recommend going with the stiffer, heavier option if you are trying to decide between two pole types. Your tent relies on its poles, and when that unexpected gust hits, you may wish you had chosen the stiffer option. 
  • Tents also pitch better with stiffer poles and require fewer guylines to perform well. So a couple of ounces of pole may save you time pitching and the weight of extra guy lines and stakes.  
  • We offer alternative pole sets at relatively low cost so you can always get multiple options to suit different trip conditions. 

I care about weight…

• • Carbon 7.8 poles are by far the lightest we offer, but are also the most flexible and least tough. 

I care about durability and reliability…

• • Aluminum poles are much tougher (more durable) than carbon.
  • Stiffer, stronger poles are generally more durable than lighter, thinner options. 

I care about wind/snow performance…

• • Our aluminum DAC 10.65mm poles are the stiffest and strongest poles we offer, but are overkill for less than extreme conditions. 
  • Aluminum DAC 9.3mm can perform very well even in extreme conditions with a proper pitch. 
  • The lower toughness and break-before-bend characteristics of carbon poles are not ideal for extreme conditions. 

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Tarptent Pole List: 

• Aluminum 9.3
  • Type: DAC NFL 9.3
  • General: A balance of weight, stiffness, and strength well suited to a wide range of conditions
  • Performance: Slightly stronger and much stiffer than Tarptent’s carbon poles
  • Materials: DAC 7000 series aluminum alloy tubes and inserts
  • Tips: Screw in aluminum grommet tips
  • Outer Diameter: 0.37 in / 9.3 mm 
  • Wall Thickness: 0.018 in / 0.45 mm
• Aluminum 10.65
  • Type: DAC Aluminum PL 10.65
  • General: Strong, stiff, but heavy. Best suited to extreme conditions.
  • Performance: Stronger and stiffer than DAC Aluminum NFL 9.3
  • Materials: DAC 7000 series aluminum alloy tubes and inserts
  • Tips: Screw in aluminum grommet tips
  • Outer Diameter:  0.42 in / 10.65 mm
  • Wall Thickness: 0.02 in / 0.5 mm
• Carbon 7.8
  • General: Weight optimized and best suited to mild or moderate conditions
  • Performance: Great strength for the weight, but very flexible compared to DAC Aluminum NFL 9.3
  • Materials: Carbon fiber tubes with carbon fiber inserts
  • Tips: Friction-fit POM or aluminum grommet tips  
  • Outer Diameter: 0.31 in / 7.8mm
• Carbon 8.8 
  • General: Weight optimized and best suited to mild or moderate conditions
  • Performance: Great strength for the weight, stiffer than 7.8mm carbon but still more flexible than DAC Aluminum NFL 9.3
  • Materials: Carbon fiber tubes with carbon fiber inserts
  • Tips: Friction-fit POM or aluminum grommet tips  
  • Outer Diameter: 0.35 in / 8.8mm outer diameter

General notes on interiors:

• ‘Solid’ fabrics:
  • Our solid fabrics are uncoated and often undyed, breathable yet highly windproof fabrics
  • Most of our solid fabrics are polyester, so they do not sag and dry fast compared to nylon 
  • Solid fabrics are significantly more expensive than mesh
  • Solid fabrics are a bit lighter and pack smaller than mesh
  • Solid fabrics do not snag like mesh can
• Mesh
  • We use only super fine knit mesh aka “no-see-um” mesh that keep out even the smallest flying insects

Full Mesh: 

• Recommended for warmer weather and high humidity
• Can be used in any conditions with a low fly edge pitch and/or if your sleeping set up is warm enough.
• Pros:
  • Maximizes air flow to keep you cool
  • Maximizes air flow to help reduce condensation 
  • Maximizes views 
  • Lowest cost
• Cons:
  • Does not block wind 
  • Does not trap warm air
  • Does not block any potential under-fly rain splashback, spindrift, or dust
  • Does not add any privacy (transparent)

Partial Solid:

• A hybrid do-it-all option
• Can be used in all conditions, great for variable weather. 
• Pros:
  • Allows for decent air flow
  • Blocks wind over you when lying down
  • Helps block any potential under fly rain splash back, spindrift, or dust. 
  • Adds some privacy when fly is open or with more transparent fly materials like DCF
• Cons:
  • Slightly more expensive to produce 
  • Blocks views when lying down
  • Somewhat reduces air flow which increases condensation potential 
  • Warmer in hot weather than full mesh
  • Colder in cold weather than a full solid

Full Solid: 

• Recommended for cold weather or very dusty environments
• Not recommended for warm weather due to increased heat 
• Pros:
  • Traps air, adding warmth
  • Blocks any potential under-fly rain splash back, spindrift, or dust
  • Full privacy screen when the fly is open or with more transparent fly materials like DCF
• Cons:
  • Most expensive to produce
  • Blocks most views, including ‘‘stargazing’ 
  • Traps air, which can greatly increase condensation potential 
  • Hot in warmer weather

What is a double wall tent?

A double wall tent is one where two layers of material separate the inside of the tent from the outside world. This is typically a waterproof fly over a mesh or breathable solid fabric interior.

There are a few main advantages to double wall tents. One is that if condensation forms on the underside of the fly you are separated from accidentally touching it by a layer of material. Another is versatility. For example our Stratospire tents can be used with a mesh interior in warmer weather, with a solid interior in colder weather, with no interior as just a tarp, or as only an interior in fair weather.

What is a single wall tent?

A single wall tent is one where only a single layer of material separates the inside of the tent and the outside world.

The advantage of a single wall tent is weight and simplicity. Why carry two layers of material when you only really need one? Single wall tents like the Protrail still offer the same bug and weather protection as a double wall tent but do not separate the user from potential condensation and do not offer the versatility of set-up options like a double wall.

What is a Hybrid Single-Double Wall Tent?

A hybrid single double wall tent is one that is like a single wall tent but with features that perform like a double wall. For example the Double Rainbow can be used with a liner to separate the user(s) from condensation like in a double wall tent.

The advantage of this type of design is that it retains much of the weight savings and simplicity of a single wall while providing some of the benefits of a double wall.

Which to Choose?

The often misunderstood fact about single versus double wall tents is condensation. Condensation occurs when warm air settles on cold surfaces. Moisture released as you breathe can become condensation as can moisture present in ambient air. Humans exhale about 16 fluid oz / 0.5 liters of water every night and all that moisture has to go somewhere. We make both single and full double wall shelters (all of which are fully enclosed) but there’s no magic about a double wall. All tents condensate. What ultimately matters is whether or not the condensation gets on you and/or your gear. Proper site selection can make all the difference between lots of condensation and little, if any, condensation. Our “How to minimize condensation” video is listed below and well-worth watching.

If you are worried about condensation because your intended use is in cool damp environments, we recommend a double wall. Additionally, if you desire a more versatile tent for a variety of conditions choosing a double wall gives you more set-up options.

If you want to go fast and light or just prefer a less complicated and more minimal shelter a single wall is for you. In many conditions a single wall will perform identically to a double wall but at a lower weight. 

“Minimum” vs “Typical” Weight:

Most advertised tent weights do not include items such as stakes, stake bag, tent bag, or cording for additional tie-outs. In our specs, we call this weight the “Minimum Weight”, but also always list a “Typical Weight” which includes these items.

Advertised Tent Weight vs Actual Weight on the Trail:

The weight you see on a tent company’s website may not be the weight you end up carrying. There are many reasons this occurs, but here are a few to consider when choosing a tent:

• Groundsheets: When comparing tents be sure to take into account the durability of the floor material and weather or not you will will need to bring the additional weight of a groundsheet. On all of our tents we choose floor materials that are heavier and more durable than the majority of our competitors as we believe that tent floors should have reasonable durability without the need for a groundsheet. Watch out for tents that use the same material for fly and floor as this is an obvious compromise in durability for cost and weight savings.
• Trekking Poles: Trekking pole tents typically do not list the weight of the trekking or substitute poles required to set them up. If you will not be carrying trekking poles already, make sure you account for the extra weight of the necessary poles.
• Extra tie-outs: Many ultralight tents come with cording for commonly used tie-out points, such as the apexes of a trekking pole tent, packed separately. This allows them to advertise a lower weight spec, but if you ever plan on using these tie-outs make sure to account for the extra weight. We typically include this weight in our “minimum weight” spec as these tie outs are very commonly used.
• Extra Stakes: Make sure the number of stakes you are accounting for includes any extras you will need for additional ties outs or pitching options. Tents that are advertised as only needing “X-number” of stakes often actually require more for full performance. Be sure to look closely at photos of the tent pitched to see how many stakes are actually being used.

Essential Properties of Tent Fabrics:

Waterproofness

• • A higher rating does not mean the fabric will perform better or keep you drier. 
  • The coating type used matters far more than the rating.
  • PU/PE/PC coatings have a zero rating when they inventively flake off.
  • Laminate fabrics like DCF have a zero rating as soon as the first pinhole forms. 
  • If you want a more in-depth discussion on this topic, please read our coating section under “Woven Fabrics in Depth” and this excellent write-up from our fellow tent company, SlingFin

Water Retention / Sag

• • Water retention and dry time depend on both the fiber type and coating type.
  • Nylon retains water and expands and ‘sags’ when wet.
  • Polyester retains less water and does not sag when wet.
  • PU/PE/PC coatings retain water and dry more slowly.
  • 100% silicone coatings retain less water and dry faster.
  • Laminate fabrics retain very little water and dry faster.

Strength

• • Tear strength matters much more than tensile strength.
  • PU/PE/PC coatings reduce tear strength.
  • 100% silicone coatings increase tear strength. 
  • Stretchiness absorbs energy.
  • How a perfectly pitched tent performs in the wind has little to do with the strength of the fabric used. 
  • Stronger fabrics help prevent catastrophic failures, minimize damage from traumatic events, and increase durability. 

Stability 

• • Tents perform best when they keep their intended shape. 
  • Fabrics that use a typical grid fiber layout are able to stretch along the bias regardless of the fiber or fabric type. 
  • Woven fabrics usually deform elastically (spring back), and laminate fabrics usually deform plastically (permanent stretch) 

Durability 

• • Fabric strength is primarily reduced over time by damage to the fibers from abrasion and small cuts. 
  • Thicker, higher denier fabrics have more material that needs to wear away before their strength is reduced below the failure point. 
  • Stretchiness helps prevent punctures and reduce abrasion
  • PU/PE/PC coatings chemically decompose when in contact with water.
  • Laminate fabric films develop pinholes due to abrasion and creasing. 
  • Silicone coatings have neither of these issues, but like all waterproofing layers, they still wear away over time. 

Tarptent does not use fabrics that have intentionally added PFOA/PFAS or flame retardants.

Essential Properties of Tent Poles:

Strength: 

• • Strength is the maximum force a pole can take before it breaks or permanently bends. 
  • It is usually more convenient to have poles that bend (aluminum) when overstressed rather than snap (carbon fiber). 
  • A ‘strong’ pole does not mean a stiff pole, and stiffness determines wind performance.
  • A ‘strong’ pole does not mean a tough pole, and toughness can determine how likely you are to break the pole. 

Stiffness:

• • Stiffer poles keep their shape, and tents need to keep their shape to perform.
  • When a tent loses its intended shape, forces increase greatly, so a stiffer, weaker pole might not break when a stronger but less stiff pole will.
  • In general, a larger tube diameter means a stiffer pole. 

Toughness: 

• • Toughness is the most overlooked aspect of tent poles and is the main reason we recommend aluminum poles. 
  • Toughness from an engineering perspective is a measure of the energy something can absorb before breaking and is also known as ‘damage resistance’. 
  • ‘Brittle’ is a term that describes low toughness.
  • Toughness helps prevent accidental damage from impacts such as the pole hitting a rock during setup.
  • Toughness helps poles survive sudden stresses such as a gust of wind, tripping over a guyline, or the tent being hit by snow falling from a tree. 
  • Carbon poles are stronger but not nearly as tough as equivalent-weight aluminum poles.

Common Tent Pole Materials: 

Aluminum:

• • Most aluminum poles use a high-strength 7000 series aluminum alloy 
  • Aluminum poles are generally the toughest poles 
  • Aluminum poles have the desirable bend-before-break property, meaning that when overstressed, the pole will start to permanently bend before it snaps. 

Carbon Fiber:

• • Carbon fiber poles are more accurately called carbon fiber composite poles, as they are made up of both carbon fibers and the glue holding them together
  • Carbon poles do not permanently bend before they snap when overstressed. 
  • The properties of any composite pole are determined by its fiber layup. Poles contain multiple layers of fibers, which are often aligned differently to optimize final properties. 
    • Fibers can be aligned radially around the tube, axially in line with the tube, or at some angle in between. 
    • Axially aligned fibers provide the most strength
    • Radially aligned fibers provide less strength but more toughness. 

Hybrid Carbon + Fiberglass:

• • Just like pure carbon poles, the properties of hybrid composite poles are determined by the fiber layup. (see above)
  • Hybrid composite poles are less strong for the weight than pure carbon.
  • Hybrid composite poles have higher toughness than pure carbon, which can greatly reduce the chances of snapping, splintering, or cracking them.
  • Some well-known carbon fiber + fiberglass poles are Easton’s Syclone poles. 

Sleeps how many?

Tents are most commonly separated by how many people they can sleep but this is an imperfect system. Both people’s size and the amount of space they need to be comfortable varies greatly so it is important to look at actual specs and tent geometry rather than just the number of people it technically sleeps. For example a tent with a 40” (1.02m) wide floor technically fits two 20” (0.51m) sleeping pads and may be called a “two person tent”, but it will be much smaller than a “two person tent” with a 52” (1.32m) wide floor that fits two 25” (0.64m) sleeping pads. This along with other sizing variations such as non-rectangular interiors, tapered interiors, and interiors that fit “wide pads” but only if they are the non-rectangular tapered style are some of the many reasons to be careful about the actual specs. 

 

How tall can I be? 

Like with the number of people a tent sleeps, maximum user height is also not a well-defined stat as what is comfortable is a matter of personal opinion. So if you are tall and looking for something that will fit you you want to look at the tent geometry and not just the floor specs or what one person said on a forum. The most common way tent floor specs can be misleading is when the fly is too low for the floor space to be usable. A 90” long tent can feel smaller than a 84” long tent as what matters is what is going on 12-14” above the floor, not how long the floor extends into a low corner. 

More on this in the ‘Why do some Tarptents have struts?’ section below. 

Doors

A ‘front entrance’ tent is one where the door(s) are on the narrow side where your head or feet are located. A ‘side entrance’ tent is one where the door(s) are on the long side or next to you when lying down. Side entries are convenient but also less weather protected and more likely to be blocked in tight campsites. 

Tents with only one door tend to be lighter, and dual door tents are generally easier to enter and exit, provide better ventilation options, and provide more vestibule space. In multi-person tents having more than one entry/exit can also help prevent disturbing your companion(s) when entering or exiting the tent.

Why do some Tarptents have struts?

A critical design goal for every tent is to maximize usable volume. By usable volume we mean space into which you can reasonably sit up, lie down, change clothes, organize gear, read a book, etc. Listed lengths, widths, and height specifications mean little in the absence of understanding the tent’s geometry. Shallow sloping walls to ground can cut off usable volume, while steep slopes and struts increase it. Two tents with identical floor dimensions and peak heights can have radically different usable volumes. For example PitchLoc ends are used in the Moment DW design to lift the effective height at the ends of the tent and dramatically increase usable floor length and volume without increasing the overall footprint.

Most people are about half their height when they are sitting up, and for your footbox, a good height estimate is 12 inches, or 30 cm. When looking at a tent, think about where your head feet are going to be and how high the ceiling is at that point. This is where a listed floor dimensions can be deceiving if the tent canopy drops below a comfortable height before the floor ends.

Detailed dimensions for all our shelters can be found on their product pages. We also have fly-arounds of 3D models with scale human models inside them to help you visualize how it might feel for you to be inside.

What is a freestanding tent?

It depends on who you ask but in the strictest sense a freestanding tent is one that can be fully pitched using no stakes or external anchor points. Many people (especially in the United States) include tents that require stakes for vestibules only when talking about “freestanding” tents.

The benefits of freestanding tents are that they can be pitched anywhere, but of course without any stakes to hold it to the ground, nothing but the weight inside will prevent the tent from being blown away in wind. Thus freestanding tents still require stakes/anchors for full performance in wind which can then make that fact that the tent is fully freestanding mostly redundant.

What is a non-freestanding (stake supported) tent?

A non-freestanding tent is one that has little to no structure without staked/anchored points. A classic non-freestanding tent is our Stratospire series, as without staked/anchored points these tents have little inherent structure. Most trekking pole supported tents are non-freestanding.

The obvious reasons for choosing a non-freestanding tent is weight and packed size. Rigid or semi-rigid structural parts add weight and bulk to a tent, but non-freestanding also means that more careful campsite selection is needed and usable interior space is decreased for a given footprint. Non-freestanding tents also generally require a longer and more careful set-up.

What is a semi-freestanding tent?

A semi-freestanding tent is one that is not strictly freestanding and not strictly non-freestanding. This means the tent does require staked/anchored points for set up, but it also has some inherent structure of its own such as an arch pole.

This is often a happy medium as it means increased usable space, wider campsite choice, and decreased overall footprint compared to a non-freestanding tent. And when compared to fully freestanding tents, semi-freestanding designs typically offer significantly lower weight and bulk.

Why do some Tarptents have optional crossing poles?

Most of our tents are non-freestanding or semi freestanding in their basic set up mode. Tents like the Moment DW and the Scarp series offer the option to use additional crossing poles. These additional poles allow the tent to convert from semi-freestanding to freestanding at the cost of the extra pole weight. These additional poles also allow the tent to be used in high wind and heavy snow conditions as they are designed to provide additional structure and support.

Why Pole Sleeves and not Pole Clips?

Pole sleeves provide uniform tension across the entire sleeve rather than at a few single points. This means more space inside for a given arch shape/size as the tent panels can closely match the arch shape rather than being forced to span a few points below it. Distributing the tension from the arch pole also means less stress on the tent fabric compared to concentrating the stress on a few clipped points.

Arch sleeves also offer convenient set up and take down as there are not a series of clips to do and undo each time. Sleeves also allow for easy “fly first” set-up which is essential if you want to keep the interior of the tent dry when setting up in the rain.

Woven Fabrics:

• Woven fabrics consist of woven fibers coated in a flexible plastic layer(s) to make them waterproof.
• In lightweight fabrics, the coating makes up a significant portion of the total weight and has a large impact on final properties.

Fibers and Weaves: 

• • • The underlying woven fibers are the core of the fabric. They provided the majority of the fabric’s properties, but the overall fabric performance is still heavily influenced by the coating applied to them.
    • Ripstop just means that there are extra fibers woven into the fabric, usually in a grid pattern. More fibers equal more overall strength, and they provide a higher-strength grid that helps stop tears from propagating.
    • Thread count is a measure of fibers per unit length. A higher thread count means a tighter, denser weave. Most tent fabrics have a relatively high thread count, as more fibers add strength, and a tighter weave helps with waterproofing.
    • Stretch happens in two primary ways. One way is when stress is applied in line with the fibers, causing them to stretch. The other is when stress is applied out of line with the fibers, causing the weave to elongate. This is known as ‘bias’ stretch, and it occurs even in fabrics made with non-stretchy fibers such as polyester. Fabrics like UltraTNT have fibers running in more directions, which limits bias stretch. 

Fiber size and Denier:

• • Fibers are typically measured in denier, which is a measure of the weight in grams of a set length of fiber (20D means 9000m of the fiber weighs 20 grams). It is not a direct measure of fiber thickness, as thickness depends on the density of the fiber type measured. Higher-density fibers will be thinner for the same denier, and lower-density fibers will be thicker. So a 15D nylon 66 fabric will have ~10-15% thicker fibers than a 15D polyester fabric. 

Densities:  

• • • Polyester: ~1.35 g/cm³
    • Nylon 66: ~1.15 g/cm³
    • UHMWPE (used in laminates). 0.95 g/cm³

Polyester vs Nylon:

Other names:

• • • Nylon: Polyamide, PA
    • Polyester: PES, PL, PET 

High Tenacity Polyester

• • • • High tenacity (HT) polyester can refer to a wide range of fiber strengths, so it is often not easy to tell exactly what is being used. The highest strength polyester fibers are also not produced in the super low deniers used for ultralight fabrics. So while it is possible for polyester to get very close to the strength of Nylon 66, those grades are not what is being used in low denier tent fabrics. 

Pros: 

• • • • Hydrophobic and faster drying (does not molecularly retain water)
      • Does not expand and becomes more flexible when wetted (non-sag) 
      • Less stretchy than Nylon (good for tent stability, but decreases tear strength) 

Cons:

• • • • Lower strength than Nylon 66
      • Lower toughness than Nylon (less shock absorbent) 

Nylon 66

• • • • Nylon 66 is the highest strength grade of Nylon, and in general, if Nylon 66 is not specifically listed, then a lower grade of Nylon is likely being used. Nylon used in tents also typically has UV stabilizers added which significantly reduce UV damage.  

Pros: 

• • • • Highest strength-to-weight available 
      • High toughness (shock absorbent) 

Cons:

• • • • Hydrophilic and slower drying (molecularly retains water)
      • Expands and becomes more flexible when wetted (sags)
      • Stretchy (not as good for tent stability, but increases tear strength) 

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Coatings:

• • • Two main types of waterproof coating are used on woven tent fabrics. Silicone and polyurethane. 
    • The most commonly used coating is a two-sided coating that uses a light silicone coating on the exterior side to bead water and a thicker polyurethane coating on the inside that provides waterproofness and a seam-tapeable surface. Example: sil/PE
    • Most Tarptents use a less common coating that is 100% silicone on both sides. This is because there are some major drawbacks to polyurethane coatings that we believe are not justified by the convenience of seam tape-ability. 
    • To avoid repeating too much information that is already out there, an in-depth discussion of coatings can be found in this article by our fellow tent company SlingFin.

Silicone:

• • • Other names: sil/sil, 100% silicone, both sides silicone
    • The terms ‘sil-poly’ and ‘sil-nylon’ historically have referred to 100% silicone-coated fabrics but currently are often used to refer to lower-performing sil/PU, sil/PE, and sil/PC coated fabrics as well. 

Pros: 

• • • Very chemically stable 
    • Naturally beads water
    • Fast drying (hydrophobic)
    • Very UV resistant
    • Increases the fabric tear strength 
    • Increases abrasion resistance

Cons:

• • • Expensive
    • Cannot be easily seam-taped

Polyurethane

• • • Other names: PU, PE, PC, sil/PU, sil/PE, sil/PC 

Pros: 

• • • Cheaper
    • Easily seam-taped

Cons:

• • • Decreases fabric tear strength
    • Chemically decomposes when in contact with water
    • Slow drying (hydrophilic)
    • Poor UV resistance
    • Does not bead water well

Types:

• • • Poly-ester Urethane 
      • The cheapest type of polyurethane
      • Not commonly used in modern tents
    • Poly-ether Urethane ‘PE’
      • Less hydrophilic than poly-ester urethane
      • Better durability than poly-ester urethane
      • Commonly used
    • Poly-carbonate Urethane ‘PC’
      • The least hydrophilic type of polyurethane
      • The most durable type of polyurethane
      • The least commonly used type of polyurethane

Laminate Fabrics: 

Laminate fabrics consist of a waterproof plastic sheet(s) called films glued to a layer of high-strength fibers called a scrim. The films provide a waterproof layer and the scrim provides strength. The main downside to laminate fabrics is their low durability. It can vary a lot with use especially in high abrasion environments but we estimate laminate fabric tents to last about one half to two thirds as long as a lightweight woven which equates to roughly 150-200 nights of use. 

Pros:

• • • Very light
    • Great tear strength
    • Great stability 
    • Do not retain water 

Cons: 

• • • Plastic deformation 
    • Should not be stuffed
    • Larger packed size
    • Very expensive 
    • Low durability due to pin holing
    • Poor abrasion resistance 

Dyneema Composite Fabrics (DCF) use a spread fiber grid where thicker fibers are split apart to create a grid of super thin but non-uniform fibers before they are high pressure glued together between the films. DCF can appear transparent in certain lighting. 

UltraTNT fabric uses the same basic materials and construction as DCF but uses a more widely spaced grid of thicker fibers. It also has fibers oriented 45 degrees from the grid to limit deformation. UltraTNT is also less transparent than DCF. 

Version 1.5 of UltraTNT added more fibers which increased puncture resistance and overall strength. 

Fibers:

Laminate fabrics use extremely strong fiber types that are not usable in lightweight woven fabrics due to the extreme costs of producing thin uniform fibers and difficulties in weaving and coating them effectively. There are many types of fibers used in laminate fabric, but the most common for tents is UHMWPE.

UHMPWE stands for Ultra high molecular weight polyethylene. Dyneema is the brand name of the leading producer of the fibers, but unbranded UHMWPE is also widely available. 

Films:

Laminate fabric films are typically made from a polyester film called Mylar. These plastic sheets provide an impermeable waterproof layer and are extremely thin, often less than half the thickness of a human hair. Since these are just super thin plastic sheets they are very water proof when new but also not very durable. Thicker films are heavier but also more durable. 

Durability and Pinholes:

The most common durability issue with laminate fabrics is the development of tiny holes known as pinholes. These form in the spans of plastic film between the fiber scrim. Many factors contribute to pinholing but the two primary ones are abrasion and creasing. Since the durability is most directly related to the film strength and pinholes must form through both film layers the total film thickness is the best indicator of the fabric’s resistance to pinholing. 

Abrasion: 

Since the plastic films are extremely thin they can wear down quickly. This happens when they are rubbing against something abrasive such as a tent floor contacting the ground and when dirt/dust/sand rubs against the fabrics such as when a dirty tent is rolled up. 

Creasing: 

Hard creases stress the films as the outer film must stretch to accommodate the tight bend. Repeated hard creasing such as when a tent is stuffed accelerates the film breakdown. This is why it is always recommended to fold a roll laminate tents to reduce the amount of repeated hard creasing. 

Deformation and Shrinkage:

Deformation: 

Fabric deformation happens in two primary ways: One way is when stress is applied in line with the fibres, causing them to stretch. The other is when stress is applied at an angle to the fibers, causing the weave to elongate. This is known as ‘bias’ stretch. This means despite being made with low-stretch fibers, laminate fabric with a simple grid fiber layout can still stretch through the bias.

There are also two types of deformation: Elastic deformation, where the fabric springs back to shape once the stress is removed, and plastic deformation, where it becomes permanently stretched. Woven fabrics usually deform elastically, and laminate fabrics usually deform plastically as the plastic films do not spring back once stretched out. This is why we don’t like having mid-panel tie-outs on fabrics like DCF where such tie-outs inevitably causes permanent deformation so that the panel no longer tensions properly unless the tie-out is always used. 

Shrinkage:

Laminate fabrics tend to ‘shrink’ over time. This is due to creases and you can see the effect for yourself by repeatedly crumpling a piece of paper and then trying to flatten it out to the same size it started at. It is standard practice to ‘pre-shrink’ laminate fabrics before they are made into tents so that the tent does not shrink as much after it starts being used. 

Decoding DCF Product Names: 

The composition of the different types of DCF is encoded into their names. The below diagrams compare a few common types used for tents. 

Plastic Hardware

• Typically made from Polyoxymethylene (POM) or Nylon
• We use the LineLoc 3  as our standard cord tensioners 
• We mainly used Duraflex, ITWNexus, and Woojin hardware 
• All plastic stiffener rods are also POM

Metal Hardware

• Aluminum
• Made by Duraflex or Trimmers Pro
• Used for the ArcDome series arch sleeve tension system for enhanced strength and durability.

Zippers

• We use only YKK coil zippers in #3 and #5 sizes.
• We use only YKK metal zipper sliders.
• All exterior fly zippers are water-resistant YKK AquaGuard® except for the ArcDome, which uses a non-waterproof zipper + flap to reduce freezing potential and stiffness in cold weather. 

We are very particular about the quality of the Dyneema® Composite Fabric (DCF) we use, and, since DCF is in part made by hand, there are occasionally larger-than-normal “gaps” in the fiber structure, which can cause durability issues. Most companies that sell DCF tents ignore these fiber gaps, as it requires extra inspection time to find them and lowers yield. However, we prefer to inspect for them and add additional DCF tape over them to prevent future issues. This adds only a few grams and has no effect on performance, but makes these tents visually different. As a result, we sell these cosmetically “blemished” tents at a discount. 

Blemished tents can be found on our “blemish” page

Click here for answers to more general questions about our products and company such as warranty, ordering, seam-sealing, parts and repairs, etc.

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